DELIVERY
Your Indigo Shower will be delivered directly from stock. your shower will arrive on a pallet and is delivered on a large tail-lift lorry.
. You will need to ensure you have a place to check and unpack the pallet and store it safely upon its arrival - a garage is ideal.
ON ARRIVAL
Please check your delivery fully upon its arrival. If there are any damages to the packaging and/or contents, please inform us immediatly, and refuse the delivery. We will then check the damaged delivery upon its return and organsie a prompt replacement. If you sign the slip it assumes there are no damages unless you indicate otherwise. If you see any damages once you have opened the boxes, also inform ourselves of these within 4 hours of delivery, so we can quickly arrange replacement parts for you and issue a claim to the delivery comp
any (notification beyond 4hrs WILL incur charges for the delivery of your replacement parts).
ELECTRICAL REQUIREMENTS
Our steam shower cabins require 1 x 13amp or 1 x 16amp electrical connection depending on the model chosen. Steam shower and Whirlpool Cabins require 2 x 13 (or 16) amp electrical connections. Whirlpool baths require 1 x 13amp electrical connection.
Connection to the main electricity supply should be made via an isolated fused spur wired back to your consumer unit with an RCD fitted in the consumer unit. The cabin arrives with a standard 3 pin socket and
inline RCD used for testing during manufacture.
The Plug RCD should be removed.
WATER REQUIREMENTS
Your shower cabin requires a separate hot and cold water supply of
between 1.5 -3 bar of pressure.
The water pressures MUST be balanced (the same pressure on both supplies).
Failure to have balanced water pressures will result in damage to the
Thermostatic Cartridge.
The pipework should be recessed to allow the cabin to fit flush to the wall.
The connections for the water are at the rear of the cabin at a location
corresponding into the control panel.
The hot and Cold water pipework should be finished to between 120 - 150 cm from the floor with
15mm compression fittings.
Our Steam Showers and Whirlpool baths are able to operate from:
1. Combi Boilers
2. Pressurised Pumps
3. Pressurised Cylinders/Megaflow Systems
Where the water supply is gravity fed or the pressure is not adequate, we recommend you install a Pump
to increase water pressure/flow.
FLOOR AND WALL PREPARATION
It is recommended that you prepare your walls and floor prior to installation of your cabin.
The cabins are either acrylic backed or mirrored glass, so you may choose not to fully tile
the walls behind.
The floor must be smooth and level. Tongue and grooved floorboards, carpet and vinyl's are
not recommended as they will not allow the cabin to be moved freely over the surface
(which is required for assembly and possible service access at later times).
SPACE AND ACCESSIBILITY
When choosing your new steam shower cabin, bear in mind that some of our cabins have large tub bases.
Ensure that you have enough space to store the cabin safely (especially the glass) until it is to be fitted.
Check you are able to get the packages and contents to the bathroom or room the shower is to be installed in with ease
(consider especially stairways and narrow hallways).
During the assembly process and for servicing after installation you will need to ensure you can slide the cabin away from the wall/corner
to move around the cabin as required. The cabins have long flexible hoses to allow it to remain connected for both water and waste for
this purpose.
DO NOT POSITION SINKS, TOILETS ETC THAT WILL RESTRICT ACCESS BEHIND THE CABIN.
The pleasure of swirling flowing water is the essence of the modern bathroom.
Every time you step into the shower or turn on a tap, there should be a pulse of enjoyment.
Without adequate pressure and water flow this is impossible.
In continental Europe and America water supplies in the house are connected to the mains water supply (unvented systems) often giving a
very high water pressure (in excess of 2 bar). Due to historical reasons, British water systems are generally connected to a water tank in the loft.
These are referred to as low pressure vented gravity systems relying on the height of the cold water storage tank in the loft to provide
the pressure and water flow to the house. Given the restriction of the height of the tank, such houses suffer from low pressure (often less than half a bar.)
Britain is the only Western country that routinely uses gravity systems. Consequently all research and development by tap and shower manufacturers concentrates on high water pressure systems leaving the British consumer "high and dry".
Showers
This area outlines the generic product information for the three areas that make up the shower sector. This sector will give an overview of the differences between each product. To help either the consumer or the installer to gain a basic understanding what each product type needs for a successful installation and the differences between the three areas.
Mixer Showers
Our shower range includes both manual and thermostatic models. The models with thermostatic control maintain your selected temperature,
even if a tap is turned on elsewhere in the house, and will shut off automatically in the event of either the hot or cold water supplies failing.
Some models feature an adjustable maximum temperature stop which, set at the highest comfortable level, will prevent young hands accidentally
turning the control up too high. Options are available for both traditional
low pressure gravity fed systems (with stored hot and cold water) and high pressure systems (e.g. combination boilers)
Whilst the mixer valve is operational (open outlet), inlet pressures must not be capable of exceeding 7 bar static pressure.
For effective operation of internal seals the maximum static pressure must not be exceeded.
Pressure reducing valves suitable for individual site conditions should be fitted on installations which exceed the above specifications.
For optimum performance within the specified running pressure range, a minimum flow of 8 litres per minute should be available to both inlets.
For correct operation of a thermostatic mixer valve shower both hot and cold ter supplies to the unit must be at nominally equal pressures. The pipework should be installed such that the flow is not significantly
affected by other taps and appliances being operated elsewhere on the premises.
Installation
Installation should be carried out by competent tradesmen in accordance with the detailed fitting instructions (supplied with every unit)
and Water Regulations and Bye-Laws. A copy of the fitting instructions should be available on request from all of the relevant manufacturer's Customer Service Departments if it would help when planning your installation.
The high pressure valve is suitable for fully modulating type combination boilers and multi-point ot water heaters. It is important to note that before installing with a gas instantaneous water heater, ensure the appliance is capable of hot water delivery at a minimum switch on flow rate per minute recommended by the manufacturers.
Dependent on the technical details of the unit it may have requirements for a minimum temperature reach over a set flow rate.
Water temperature at the inlet to the mixer must remain relatively constant when flow rate adjustments are made.
Technical requirements for a Shower cabin
Site Requirements - Electrical if a shower pump is fitted
The pump must be permanently connected to the electricity supply via a double pole isolating switch with a minimum contact gap of 3mm in both poles. The switch must be readily accessible but out of reach of a person using a fixed bath or shower, except for the cord of a pull cord operated switch. The wiring must be connected to the switch without the use of a plug or socket outlet. The supply cable selected for installation must conform to the relevant table
in the I.E.E. regulations. To enhance electrical safety a 30mA RCD (Residual Current Device) should be installed in all UK electric and pumped shower circuits. This may be part of the consumer unit or a separate unit. (often supplied already fitted within the shower cabin, depending on model ordered.
Site Requirements - Electrical for a Steam shower cabin
The cabin must be permanently connected to the electricity supply via a double pole isolating switch with a minimum contact gap of 3mm in both poles. The switch must be readily accessible but out of reach of a person using a fixed
bath or shower, except for the cord of a pull cord operated switch. The wiring must be connected to the switch without the use of a plug or socket outlet.
The supply cable selected for installation must conform to the relevant table in the I.E.E. regulations.
To enhance electrical safety a 30mA RCD (Residual Current Device) should be installed in all UK electric and pumped shower circuits.
This may be part of the consumer unit or a separate unit. (often supplied already fitted within the shower cabin, depending on model ordered.
The electrical requirements for the 2068 / 2056 / 7690 and 7692 cabins are : 240Vac 13a mains, to run the 3Kv Steam generator
The requirements for the 301/ 302 / 803/ 811/ 815/ 701 / 702 and 703 cabins are : 240Vac 16a mains, to run the 3.6Kv Steam generator
There are no electrical requirements for the shower panels
** These electrical appliances must be earthed **
Site Requirements - Water - if a shower pump is to be fitted
To ensure correct operation the cabin must be connected to a cistern fed supply of hot and cold water at nominally equal pressures.
The cold water cistern must always be above the pump (if fitted) to ensure priming of the unit. The hot water storage cylinder and cold
water cistern should each have a minimum storage capacity of 114 litres in order to ensure adequate infill rate.
If supplying a number of outlets, it is recommended that the cold water cistern should have a minimum capacity of 230 litres in order to ensure adequate infill rate.
Both hot and cold water supplies to the pump must be dedicated and separate from any other outlets or connections.
Site Requirements - Electrical
The shower must be permanently connected to the electricity supply via a double pole isolating switch with a minimum contact gap of 3mm in both poles. The switch must be readily accessible but out of reach of a person using a fixed bath or shower, except for the cord of a pull cord operated switch. The wiring must be connected to the switch without the use of a plug or socket outlet.
The supply cable selected for installation must conform to the relevant table in the current I.E.E. regulations.
The size of cable required is determined by the kW rating of the shower, the distance between the shower and the consumer unit and the way the cable is to be fitted. The minimum size will be 6mm2 but in some cases 10mm2 or larger will be required.
For showers rated above 8kW a minimum cable size of 10mm2 is strongly recommended. To enhance electrical safety a 30mA RCD (Residual Current Device) should be installed in all UK electric and pumped shower circuits.
This may be part of the consumer unit or a separate unit. IMPORTANT! If upgrading to a higher Kilowatt shower it is essential to ensure the electrical supply and shower cable is adequate for the increased load.
Site Requirements - Water
An isolation valve must be fitted in a convenient position in the supply pipe to allow the shower to be serviced. Where installation could result in the sprayhead falling below the top of the bath or shower tray, it will be necessary to fit a Double Check Valve to the inlet to prevent back flow, in accordance with water regulations and By-Laws.
Water Inlet Connection 15mm diameter Water Outlet Connection Threaded 1/2" BSP
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
To reduce the effects of condensation
Rooms containing a shower should be adequately ventilated.
----------------------
The steam generated during a steam session, is normally washed away during the subsequent shower down, combined with the fact that steam cabins do not leak large amounts of steam out into the room.
Therefore they do not specifically need any ducting out of the building, unless installed somewhere where water vapour emissions are particularly harmful, such as when fitted within a static caravan or an unvented room.
Planning a shower Water pressure at the shower head is important. If it is too low, the flow of water from the rose will be weak For a shower mixer supplied from the household's stored hot and cold supplies, the bottomof the cold-water cistern
needs to be at least 900mm - and preferably 1.5m - above the fixed shower head for pressure to be adequate.
For an instantaneous shower supplied direct from the mains,
the pressure requirement varies according to the model, but in most homes it is unlikely to be too low, unless, perhaps, you live on the top floor of a block of flats, or in an old house converted into flats. Contact your local water company if in doubt.
Water supply and drainage
Little or no pipework is involved in installing a shower bath, but supply and drainage routes must be worked out for a shower in a
separate cubicle. The drainage is often more difficult to arrange than the water supply to the shower,
and you may need to get approval from your local authority Building Control Officer. Use 15mm diameter supply pipes.
To minimise loss of pressure, pipe runs to the shower should be as short and straight as possible.
Avoid using elbow joints at corners - instead, bend pipes if possible to minimise resistance to flow. When routeing a pipe,
ensure that fixings will not interfere with electric cables or gas pipes.
Showers that do mean extra pipework over a bath are instantaneous electric showers and mixer types.
For an instantaneous shower you need a cold supply pipe taken direct from the rising main; for a mixer shower, you need hot and cold supply
pipes.
Pipework for a shower mixer
For a manual mixer, take the cold supply pipe direct from the cold water cistern to avoid risk of scalding when other cold taps are turned on.
Take the hot supply from the hot water cylinder distribution pipe - tee in above cylinder height.
For a thermostatic mixer, which has a temperature stabiliser, you can tee in to bathroom supply pipes.
Shower mixers
If you are installing a manual shower mixer over a bath or in a cubicle, you must take the cold supply direct from the storage cistern.
Taking the supply from a branch pipe
supplying other taps or cisterns is unsafe because when the other fitting is in use, the cold supply to the shower could be reduced so
much that the shower becomes scalding hot. Hot water for the shower mixer can be taken from a branch pipe,
because there is no danger if the hot supply to the shower is reduced - though it can give you a nasty chilly spray. If you take the hot
supply from the cylinder distribution pipe, make the connection at a point above the height of the cylinder top.
With a thermostatic shower mixer, however, both hot and cold water can be taken from the branch pipes, as the water temperature
is automatically controlled.
Achieving adequate pressure
If you do not have sufficient water pressure to supply a shower at the required position, there are two ways to increase it: you
can either raise the height of the cistern or have a booster pump installed.
Boosting water pressure with a dual pump
This boosts hot and cold water tap supplies separately. Some types of pump have a hot supply pipe direct from the cylinder casing, some
from the vent pipe. A dual booster pump should be fitted by a plumber.
Raising the cistern
The cold water cistern can be raised by fitting a strong wooden platform beneath it, constructed from timber struts and blockboard.
You will also have to lengthen the rising main to reach the cistern, as well as the distribution pipes from the cistern.
Booster pumps
These incorporate an electric motor and must be wired into the power supply. There are two main types. A single pump is fittedbetween
the shower mixer control and the spray and boosts the mixed supply to the spray.
A dual pump is fitted to the supply pipes and boosts the hot and cold supplies separately before they reach the mixer.
Depending on the model, a booster pump will provide sufficient pressure with as little as 150mm height
difference between the water level in the cistern and the spray head. Most dual pumps need to be at least 300mm below the cold tank,
but some will provide sufficient pressure to a shower head sited higher than the cold water storage cistern, which allows a shower to be
installed in an attic.
Pipework for an instantaneous shower
Here, only a cold supply, direct from the rising main, is needed. This is useful where there is no cold water storage cistern,
as mains cold water and stored hot water cannot, by law, be mixed in one fitting.
Bath and shower enclosure installation
By Jon Hunan.
In a culture that's on the move, filling a bath is often too time consuming and impractical to fit into a daily routine.
While showers are a must have in newer construction, some older properties are sadly lacking in this department.
Whether you're looking for a separate stall, or just an addition to the existing Bath, shower installation is a fantastic (and sometimes,
quite necessary) improvement for many homes.
Shower Installation over an Existing Bath
Some older homes still have a bathroom equipped not with a shower and bathtub combination, but with an antique claw foot tub.
These tubs are solidly built and nice to look at, but in many scenarios, simply take too long to fill and use.
Homeowners lucky enough to possess one of these vintage beauties should certainly take a look at claw foot Bath shower kits.
The kit will come complete with everything you need to add a fully functional shower to your tub,
but won't require a great deal of carpentry or plumbing knowledge. Basically, the work won't be much more difficult than replacing a
Tap and screwing a few supports into a ceiling. When it comes to shower installation, it doesn't get much easier than that!
These kits are fairly affordable and not difficult to put up, plus you get to keep the antique Bath and have the convenience of a shower at
the same time. When the kit is completely installed, there will still be a lot of exposed pipe that, to some,
might be undesirable. Hiding the pipes behind a wall, however, is a pretty involved process that will most likely need to be handled by
a professional plumber.
Stall Shower Installation
In a place where space is limited, like in a half bathroom, a shower stall makes the most sense. Having an extra area in which to wash is not
just convenient, but also adds value to the home. Many new constructions are placing both a bathtub
and a stall shower in the master bathroom for added convenience and a modern look and feel.
Depending on the layout of the space you're working with, however, putting in a shower Enclosure could require some serious skills.
Remodeling an existing shower enclosure is not that difficult of a process, but installing a new unit will require quite
a bit of plumbing and carpentry. Even putting in a shower enclosure kit (available at many home improvement stores) will be a
rather involved operation. Any DIY attempting this job should have at least some knowledge of laying pipe.
The Importance of a Shower Base
A good shower enclosure begins with a good shower base. In the case of the claw foot tub, the shower base is the bath itself.
In an enclosure, the shower base is either built by hand (if making a traditional tile shower),
or prefabricated enclosure may come with a ready-made base. When water goes where it's not supposed to, a number of bad
things can happen. Mould growth, bug infestation,
and even structural damage can all be caused by excess moisture. Homeowners attempting shower installation on their own need
to take special care to make walls, and especially the base, water tight.
Jon Nunan is a freelance writer who draws on his experience in construction, ranging from landscaping to log home building,
for his articles on home improvement.
A Consumers Guide To Bathroom Taps
Low Pressure Taps v High Pressure Taps
First the good news, if you have a combi-boiler or un-vented hot water system then you don't need to worry about pressure,
both high pressure and low pressure taps will work well with your system.
However, if you have a traditional gravity fed system, with a cold water storage tank in the loft, and a hot water cylinder then you will need
to be more careful.
Firstly you need to work out how much water pressure you have:
Measure the distance, in metres, from the base of the cold water storage tank, to the outlet of the tap and multiply by 0.1 to give you the
pressure in bar:
e.g. 1.1 Meters x 0.1 = 0.11 bar
2.5 Metres x 0.1 = 0.25 bar
If you want a bath/shower mixer with a showering handset, then you must measure the distance from the base of the cold water storage tank
to the height at which the handset will be used, not the height of the tap, or the handset when it rests in the cradle.
You also need to be aware that elongated pipe work runs quickly use up any pressure within a system,
so if your taps are a long way from the cold storage tank then you will need to reduce the calculated pressure to take account of this.
Once you have a good idea of your water pressure then you need to check that whatever taps you are looking to buy will work at that pressure.
As a rule of thumb many "designer" taps come from Europe where the water systems have higher pressure than in the UK and these taps won't
work if you have very low pressure.
Designer taps made specifically to work on low pressure systems are generally more expensive and the retailer will highlight the fact that the
taps are suitable for low pressure systems.
If it doesn't say specifically that the taps will work with low pressure then assume the worst and don't buy without asking the retailer to confirm
the pressure requirements.
Ceramic Disc Taps v Spindle Taps
Ceramic disc and spindle refer to the way the internal mechanism of the tap operates:
Ceramic disc technology is commonly used on more expensive taps, as they perform better and last longer. When the handle is turned, two
ceramic discs are parted opening the valve and allowing the water to flow.
The traditional spindle design is commonly used on lower quality, cheaper tap designs. The tap has a spindle through the centre, with the
valve seat connected via a screw thread.
A standard tap washer (either ½" or ¾") is fixed to the end of the valve seat. As the handle is turned the spindle rotates and the screw thread
moves the valve seat up and down to regulate the flow of water
Ceramic Disc Taps
Ceramic Disc Technology
Benefits
Drip free - never change another tap washer again !
Long Life - should never need to be replaced under normal use
Easy to Operate - only a quarter turn is needed to go from full on to off
Range of styles - works with modern lever designs and round handles
Draw Backs
Lower flow rates - Unsuitable for very low pressure systems
Spindle Taps
Traditional Washer Mechanism
Benefits
Higher flow rates - suitable for most systems, high or low pressure
Draw Backs
Difficult to operate - handle has to be turned many times from off to full on
Higher maintenance - washers will require replacing regularly
Less choice of style - cannot be used with modern lever designs
There are two key things to remember.
1.Unless you have a very low pressure system or are looking for the lowest possible cost then it is best to go for ceramic disc taps.
2.When comparing tap prices always ensure that both taps use the same mechanism. They may look the same, but if one is ceramic disc and
one uses a spindle then the cheapest tap may actually be the worst value
Standards and Byelaws for Taps
British Standards
The first thing that confuses many people is that British Standards for taps are not quality guarantees.
They simply specify certain things that a tap meeting with the standard should do. There is also no requirement that any product is tested by
a third party to confirm it actually
meets the standard, so a claim that a product meets BS5412 is only as reliable as the company making the claim !
The British Standards represent the minimum that a tap should meet to perform a specific application.
The main British Standards applied to taps are:
BS5412
The specification for low-resistance single taps and combination tap assemblies.
BS1010
The Specification for draw-off taps and stop-valves for water services
There is no British Standard at all for Ceramic Disc taps. So the very fact that someone quotes that the tap complies with BS5412 or BS1010
let's you know that it is an inferior design spindle tap!
Water Byelaws
All products connected to the UK potable (drinking) water supply must be compliant to the UK Water Byelaws. There are independent testing
and certification schemes in place to prove conformity, however these are not mandatory in the UK.
The cost of external certification is high and many reputable tap manufacturers choose not to pay for certification. Any taps that have KIWA
or WRAS approval have been tested for compliance and should be of a good quality, all taps installed in the UK, must by law comply with the
Water Byelaws.
Flexible Connectors v Rigid Connectors (Tails)
Mono Basin & Bidet mixers are connected to the water supply by connectors, sometimes referred to tap tails. These come in two types, flexible
and rigid and the customer generally doesn't get a choice within a range of taps. Both types connect directly to standard 15mm copper pipe
work.
The tap manufacturer generally decides what sort of connectors each range of tap he makes will have.
Which type is most suitable for you depends on where the taps are being installed and who is doing the installation.
Flexible Connectors
Best for DIY Installers: You don't need any plumbing skills, the flexible hose will easily bend into whatever shape is required and the
connection is made simply by tightening the compression nut with a wrench.
Best for small spaces with difficult access. The flexible hose allows connections in spaces that would be almost impossible to get into with
rigid pipe work.
Rigid Connectors
Best for professional installers: The rigid connectors become part of the solid copper pipe run that connects the supply to the tap.
The connections are made with capillary fittings, lead free solder and a blow torch. The end result looks neater, lasts longer and is much
less prone to leaks.
Best for more open spaces with easy access. Even the most professional installer will need a large enough space to bend and fit the copper
pipe run from the supply. If the space is too tight then flexible connectors may be the only possible choice.
What's the tap made of ?
Taps can be made from a variety of materials of varying quality and cost.
A general rule of thumb is that the heavier the tap the better the quality of materials used !
Plastic
Plastic taps are very cheap and very low quality. They are very light and are available in a range of colours.
Standard Brass ABS/Mazac
Standard brass is commonly used to manufacture the bodies of mid-priced, medium quality taps.
Many tap components (such as handles) can be made from ABS (plastic) or an alternative material often referred to as Mazac (Pot Metal).
These are cheaper than using brass, and whilst the quality is often very good, brass offers a better finish and longevity.
DZR Brass
Standard brass has gained universal acceptance in many facets of the water distribution industry. However, in certain
circumstances when exposed to particular combinations of pH
and concentrations of chlorides, they can experience a severe form of corrosion known as dezincification.
The solution to this problem is a dezincification resistant alloy, commonly referred to as DZR brass.
This is the Rolls Royce material for taps and the highest quality product will be made from DZR brass without any ABS or Mazac components
Different Types of Basin Tap
Basin Pillar Taps
Basin pillar taps are single tap bodies, with a ½" BSP connection, for use with any two tap hole basin. (i.e. a separate tap for hot and cold,
the traditional British arrangement). The hot tap is always installed on the left hand side
Mono Basin Mixers
There are two types of mono basin mixers, single & dual flow. The single flow mixers mix both supplies at the base of the spout and discharge
a mixed flow. With dual flow mixers, the hot & cold flow is kept separate until the point of discharge.
Mono basin mixers can either use a lever arrangement with a ceramic disc cartridge, or use twin valves (either standard or ceramic disc) and
separate handles to operate the hot & cold independently.
Mono basin mixers are normally supplied with a pop-up-waste assembly.
Tall Mono Basin Mixers
The same as Mono basin mixers, only supplied with an elongated body. These taps are normally installed in conjunction with countertop
wash hand basins. Most of the Tall Mono Basin Mixers are of the lever type, utilising ceramic disc cartridges.
Tall mono basin mixers are not normally supplied with a pop-up waste assembly.
Three Hole Basin Mixers
3TH basin mixers consist of three parts, connected via either rigid or flexible pipe work. The spout is positioned centrally, with the hot & cold
controls on either side. 3TH basin mixers utilise either standard or ceramic disc valves
Different Types of Bath Tap
Deck Bath Fillers
Deck bath fillers work in a similar way to mono basin mixers, taking the hot and cold supplies and discharging through a central spout.
The word 'Deck' refers to the fact that the base of the tap is flush with the surface of the bath.
As with Mono basin mixers, there are two main types, single & dual flow. The single flow mixers mix both supplies at the base of the spout and
discharge a mixed flow. With dual flow mixers, the hot & cold flow is kept separate until the point of discharge.
Deck bath fillers offer a stylish alternative to single bath pillar taps, and are suitable for low pressure installations.
Pillar Bath Fillers
As with deck bath fillers, only that the body of the tap is held above the bath surface, connected via a pillar elbow.
Deck Bath/Shower Mixers
As with deck bath mixers, deck bath/showers mixers offer the additional feature of incorporating a diverter valve, to which a hose
and handset is normally connected. It is important to realise that in most cases this is not thermostatic, and generally offers a lower
shower performance than using an actual shower mixer.
The diverter is almost always integrated into the spout, which reduces the flow rate, making these products unsuitable for very
low pressure systems
Pillar Bath/Shower Mixers
As with deck bath/shower mixers, only that the body of the tap is held above the bath surface, connected via a pillar elbow.
Bath Filler Waste & Controls
Bath waste fillers offer an ingenious way to fill a bath without having standard taps cluttering the bath rim.
They can be used in conjunction with either separate hot & cold controls, which can be sited almost anywhere
around the bath rim or within an adjacent wall, or with a thermostatic mixer shower which either has a built-in diverter mechanism,
or using a separate diverter to control the outlet of any standard built-in thermostatic control.
The pleasure of swirling flowing water is the essence of the modern bathroom.
Every time you step into the shower or turn on a tap, there should be a pulse of enjoyment.
Without adequate pressure and water flow this is impossible.
In continental Europe and America water supplies in the house are connected to the mains water supply (unvented systems) often giving a
very high water pressure (in excess of 2 bar). Due to historical reasons, British water systems are generally connected to a water tank in the loft.
These are referred to as low pressure vented gravity systems relying on the height of the cold water storage tank in the loft to provide
the pressure and water flow to the house. Given the restriction of the height of the tank, such houses suffer from low pressure (often less than
half a bar.)
Britain is the only Western country that routinely uses gravity systems. Consequently all research and development by tap and shower
manufacturers concentrates on high water pressure systems leaving the British consumer "high and dry".
Showers
This area outlines the generic product information for the three areas that make up the shower sector. This sector will give an overview of the
differences between each product. To help either the consumer or the installer to gain a basic understanding what each product type needs for
a successful installation and the differences between the three areas.
Mixer Showers
Our shower range includes both manual and thermostatic models. The models with thermostatic control maintain your selected temperature,
even if a tap is turned on elsewhere in the house, and will shut off automatically in the event of either the hot or cold water supplies failing.
Some models feature an adjustable maximum temperature stop which, set at the highest comfortable level,
will prevent young hands accidentally
turning the control up too high. Options are available for both traditional
low pressure gravity fed systems (with stored hot and cold water) and high pressure systems (e.g. combination boilers)
Whilst the mixer valve is operational (open outlet), inlet pressures must not be capable of exceeding 7 bar static pressure.
For effective operation of internal seals the maximum static pressure must not be exceeded.
Pressure reducing valves suitable for individual site conditions should be fitted on installations which exceed the above specifications.
For optimum performance within the specified running pressure range, a minimum flow of 8 litres per minute should be available to both inlets.
For correct operation of a thermostatic mixer valve shower both hot and cold
water supplies to the unit must be at nominally equal pressures. The pipework should be installed such that the flow is not significantly
affected by other taps and appliances being operated elsewhere on the premises.
Installation
Installation should be carried out by competent tradesmen in accordance with the detailed fitting instructions (supplied with every unit)
and Water Regulations and Bye-Laws. A copy of the fitting instructions should be available
on request from all of the relevant manufacturer's Customer Service Departments if it would help when planning your installation.
The high pressure valve is suitable for fully modulating type combination boilers and multi-point
hot water heaters. It is important to note that before installing with a gas instantaneous water heater, ensure the appliance is capable of
hot water delivery at a minimum switch on flow rate per minute recommended by the manufacturers.
Dependent on the technical details of the unit it may have requirements for a minimum temperature reach over a set flow rate.
Water temperature at the inlet to the mixer must remain relatively constant when flow rate adjustments are made.
Technical requirements for a Shower cabin
Site Requirements - Electrical if a shower pump is fitted
The pump must be permanently connected to the electricity supply via a double pole isolating switch with a minimum contact gap
of 3mm in both poles. The switch must be readily accessible but out of reach of a person using a
fixed bath or shower, except for the cord of a pull cord operated switch. The wiring must be connected to the switch without the use
of a plug or socket outlet. The supply cable selected for installation must conform to the relevant table
in the I.E.E. regulations. To enhance electrical safety a 30mA RCD (Residual Current Device) should be installed in all UK electric and
pumped shower circuits. This may be part of the consumer unit or a separate unit. (often supplied
already fitted within the shower cabin, depending on model ordered.
Site Requirements - Electrical for a Steam shower cabin
The cabin must be permanently connected to the electricity supply via a double pole isolating switch with a minimum contact gap of
3mm in both poles. The switch must be readily accessible but out of reach of a person using a fixed
bath or shower, except for the cord of a pull cord operated switch. The wiring must be connected to the switch without the use of a plug
or socket outlet.
The supply cable selected for installation must conform to the relevant table in the I.E.E. regulations.
To enhance electrical safety a 30mA RCD (Residual Current Device) should be installed in all UK electric and pumped shower circuits.
This may be part of the consumer unit or a separate unit.
(often supplied already fitted within the shower cabin, depending on model ordered.
The electrical requirements for the 2068 / 2056 / 7690 and 7692 cabins are : 240Vac 13a mains, to run the 3Kv Steam generator
The requirements for the 301/ 302 / 803/ 811/ 815/ 701 / 702 and 703 cabins are : 240Vac 16a mains, to run the 3.6Kv Steam generator
There are no electrical requirements for the shower panels
** These electrical appliances must be earthed **
Site Requirements - Water - if a shower pump is to be fitted
To ensure correct operation the cabin must be connected to a cistern
fed supply of hot and cold water at nominally equal pressures.
The cold water cistern must always be above the pump (if fitted) to ensure priming of the unit. The hot water storage cylinder and cold
water cistern should each have a minimum storage capacity of 114 litres in order to ensure adequate infill rate.
If supplying a number of outlets,
it is recommended that the cold water cistern should have a minimum capacity of 230 litres in order to ensure adequate infill rate.
Both hot and cold water supplies to the pump must be dedicated and separate from any other outlets or connections.
Site Requirements - Electrical
The shower must be permanently connected to the electricity supply via a double pole isolating switch with a minimum contact gap of
3mm in both poles. The switch must be readily accessible but out of reach of a person using a fixed bath or shower,
except for the cord of a pull cord operated switch. The wiring must be connected to the switch without the use of a plug or socket outlet.
The supply cable selected for installation must conform to the relevant table in the current I.E.E. regulations.
The size of cable required is determined by the kW rating of the shower, the distance between the shower and the consumer unit and the
way the cable is to be fitted. The minimum size will be 6mm2 but in some cases 10mm2 or larger will be required.
For showers rated above 8kW a minimum cable size of 10mm2 is strongly recommended. To enhance electrical safety a 30mA RCD
(Residual Current Device) should be installed in all UK electric and pumped shower circuits.
This may be part of the consumer unit or a separate unit. IMPORTANT! If upgrading to a higher Kilowatt shower it is essential to ensure
the electrical supply and shower cable is adequate for the increased load.
Site Requirements - Water
An isolation valve must be fitted in a convenient position in the supply pipe to allow the shower to be serviced. Where installation could
result in the sprayhead falling below the top of the bath or shower tray,
it will be necessary to fit a Double Check Valve to the inlet to prevent back flow, in accordance with water regulations and By-Laws.
Water Inlet Connection 15mm diameter Water Outlet Connection Threaded 1/2" BSP
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To reduce the effects of condensation
Rooms containing a shower should be adequately ventilated.
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The steam generated during a steam session, is normally washed away during the subsequent shower down, combined with the fact
that steam cabins do not leak large amounts of steam out into the room.
Therefore they do not specifically need any ducting out of the building, unless installed somewhere where water vapour emissions are
particularly harmful, such as when fitted within a static caravan or an unvented room.
Planning a shower Water pressure at the shower head is important. If it is too low, the flow of water from the rose will be weak
For a shower mixer supplied from the household's stored hot and cold supplies, the bottomof the cold-water cistern
needs to be at least 900mm - and preferably 1.5m - above the fixed shower head for pressure to be adequate.
For an instantaneous shower supplied direct from the mains,
the pressure requirement varies according to the model, but in most homes it is unlikely to be too low, unless, perhaps, you live on the
top floor of a block of flats, or in an old house converted into flats. Contact your local water company if in doubt.
Water supply and drainage
Little or no pipework is involved in installing a shower bath, but supply and drainage routes must be worked out for a shower in a
separate cubicle. The drainage is often more difficult to arrange than the water supply to the shower,
and you may need to get approval from your local authority Building Control Officer. Use 15mm diameter supply pipes.
To minimise loss of pressure, pipe runs to the shower should be as short and straight as possible.
Avoid using elbow joints at corners - instead, bend pipes if possible to minimise resistance to flow. When routeing a pipe,
ensure that fixings will not interfere with electric cables or gas pipes.
Showers that do mean extra pipework over a bath are instantaneous electric showers and mixer types.
For an instantaneous shower you need a cold supply pipe taken direct from the rising main; for a mixer shower, you need hot and cold supply
pipes.
Pipework for a shower mixer
For a manual mixer, take the cold supply pipe direct from the cold water cistern to avoid risk of scalding when other cold taps are turned on.
Take the hot supply from the hot water cylinder distribution pipe - tee in above cylinder height.
For a thermostatic mixer, which has a temperature stabiliser, you can tee in to bathroom supply pipes.
Shower mixers
If you are installing a manual shower mixer over a bath or in a cubicle, you must take the cold supply direct from the storage cistern.
Taking the supply from a branch pipe
supplying other taps or cisterns is unsafe because when the other fitting is in use, the cold supply to the shower could be reduced so
much that the shower becomes scalding hot. Hot water for the shower mixer can be taken from a branch pipe,
because there is no danger if the hot supply to the shower is reduced - though it can give you a nasty chilly spray. If you take the hot
supply from the cylinder distribution pipe, make the connection at a point above the height of the cylinder top.
With a thermostatic shower mixer, however, both hot and cold water can be taken from the branch pipes, as the water temperature
is automatically controlled.
Achieving adequate pressure
If you do not have sufficient water pressure to supply a shower at the required position, there are two ways to increase it: you
can either raise the height of the cistern or have a booster pump installed.
Boosting water pressure with a dual pump
This boosts hot and cold water tap supplies separately. Some types of pump have a hot supply pipe direct from the cylinder casing, some
from the vent pipe. A dual booster pump should be fitted by a plumber.
Raising the cistern
The cold water cistern can be raised by fitting a strong wooden platform beneath it, constructed from timber struts and blockboard.
You will also have to lengthen the rising main to reach the cistern, as well as the distribution pipes from the cistern.
Booster pumps
These incorporate an electric motor and must be wired into the power supply. There are two main types. A single pump is fittedbetween
the shower mixer control and the spray and boosts the mixed supply to the spray.
A dual pump is fitted to the supply pipes and boosts the hot and cold supplies separately before they reach the mixer.
Depending on the model, a booster pump will provide sufficient pressure with as little as 150mm height
difference between the water level in the cistern and the spray head. Most dual pumps need to be at least 300mm below the cold tank,
but some will provide sufficient pressure to a shower head sited higher than the cold water storage cistern, which allows a shower to be
installed in an attic.
Pipework for an instantaneous shower
Here, only a cold supply, direct from the rising main, is needed. This is useful where there is no cold water storage cistern,
as mains cold water and stored hot water cannot, by law, be mixed in one fitting.
Bath and shower enclosure installation
By Jon Hunan.
In a culture that's on the move, filling a bath is often too time consuming and impractical to fit into a daily routine.
While showers are a must have in newer construction, some older properties are sadly lacking in this department.
Whether you're looking for a separate stall, or just an addition to the existing Bath, shower
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